A
venture into the Himalayas is more than a mere
journey: it is a "yatra". A pilgrimage
does not hold more importance than it does in
Garhwal and Kumaon, once known as "Uttarakhand"
- the 'northern territories' - in the pre Vedic
era. This is the domain of the ascetic Lord
Shiva, the destroyer and re-creator; it is land
charged with "Shakti", the power and
energy of the goddess Parvati, consort of Shiva
and the daughter of Himavat, Lord of the Mountains.
Together, Garhwal and Kumaon form a sizable
wedge in the Central Himalayas, joining India
and Nepal.
Garhwal
today remains a land of myth and legend, where
every stone tells a story. The earliest historical
references to the region are found in the Vedas,
paeans to the purity of the Himalayas. Specific
mention of the mountains exists in the Mahabharata,
dated around 1000 BC. This is when the protagonists
of the epic, the Pandavas, are said to have
ended their life on earth by ascending the slopes
of peak in western Garhwal called Swargarohini
- literally, the Ascent to Heaven'. The epic
also mentions this region being the home of
the Kirata, Puolinda and Tangara tribes.
Succeeding
the Macedonian march across the Himalayan foothills,
an imperialist tradition was instituted around
330 AD, by the Gupta's.
The
Vardhanas followed in the fifth century AD.
The ultimate downfall of the Vardhana Empire
saw the emergence of a number of small principalities
controlled by petty chieftains. Thereafter,
during the time of the Turkish onslaught on
the plains, they were subject to a change in
size and power, as additional waves of migration
took place.
Whoever
was in power, added to the tradition of meditation,
and worshiped in these unspoiled mountain enclaves.
Today, if a resident is asked about the history
of the region, the answer is likely to be shaped
more by myth than by chronicle. Even now, the
local villages associate various towns and habitats
with affairs of state and politics. This is
largely due to the efforts of the saint, Adi
Shankaracharya, a Namboodri Brahmin from Malabar
in South India.
Adi
Shankarachaya was entirely responsible for the
revival of Hinduism in the early ninth century.
At the time that he set out on his reformist
mission, Uttarakhand was a medley of mystic
cults, naga worship, tantric rites and faith.
He established a series of "dhams"
and "maths" - seats of Hindu religion
- at elevated sites in the midst of the Himalayas.
At
Jyotirmath, now Joshimath, he set up an institution
of Hindu learning and instruction, a tradition
that remains today. At Badrinath, he installed
the image of Lord Vishnu near the source of
the Alaknanda River, and at Kedarnath he chose
to enshrine Lord Shiva himself. He died in 820
A.D. at Kedarnath and his samadhi (memorial)
lures thousands of travelers till today.